You’ll drive past more than one without noticing. A low platform of dark lava stones set back from the road. A terraced rise on a bluff above the ocean. A square wall of stacked basalt swallowed by kiawe trees. These are heiau, the temples of pre-contact Hawaiʻi, and a surprising number of them are still standing across the four main islands, sometimes a few minutes from the resort you’re staying at.
The ones you’ll have heard of (Puʻukoholā on the Big Island, Piʻilanihale on Maui) are protected as state or national historic sites with rangers and signage. Plenty of others sit beside dirt pull-offs or down beach access trails, with little more than a small Hawaiʻi Department of Land and Natural Resources sign and an expectation that you’ll know how to behave. This guide is the briefing you’d get from a friend who lives here.
