When I woke up that first morning on Maui, I felt good. I was excited about getting out and seeing the island. For our first day I'd decided we'd drive the beautiful Road to Hana, which winds almost 60 miles along the northeast coastline of Maui into the remote town of Hana. We set out fairly early to beat the traffic, and having never been to Maui before, I had a full agenda — enough that it would take us two days to see everything I'd jotted down.
Our first stop was Twin Falls. It was interesting — a few smaller falls, easy walk in. I never stop there now (I know better things are ahead), but I look back and remember how much fun that first stop was. We continued along the Hana Highway and I remember several rain showers passing through the drive. I know now that's just how it goes out there.
To this day, I distinctly remember coming around the corner at Waikamoi Ridge Trail, missing the stop, and actually making a three-point turn on the Hana Highway. There's an experience to remember — and one I'd absolutely tell you not to do today. But I was 21 and on a mission. I went back. I had to make sure I visited that stop.
It was absolutely beautiful. Everything I had imagined and more. The place made an impression on me. If I'd known just how much of an impression, in the moment, I probably would have lingered longer. But I'll come back to that.
Heading back onto the highway, we missed one of the best stops on the drive that trip — the Garden of Eden. I think I assumed a "commercial" garden wouldn't interest me. I was wrong. That garden and I would have a lot of history before too long. But I'll come back to that too.
Talking story in Hana
As the road snaked in and out of valleys that day, we had a great time and saw a lot of beautiful things. The clouds were building, showing a storm system was coming in, but we didn't care. Maui was gorgeous to us. Everyone we met was kind. I remember getting into Hana town and "talking story" for the first time with a local resident at the General Store. It was a marvelous first day. By the time we got back to the condo, we were exhausted and ready for a good night's sleep.
The next morning we took a guided tour to the top of Haleakala, the volcano that makes up almost the entire eastern side of Maui. I'm still not sure why I opted for a guided tour (you can easily drive up yourself), but we did. The tour was fun, but the storm system that had blown in completely socked in the summit. You couldn't see ten feet in front of your face. Bummer. A few days later we drove back up ourselves and saw Haleakala in all her glory — an incredible experience to look out across a sea of clouds beneath you, into the expansive volcanic crater. And boy, was it cold. Dress warmly when you go. Trust me on that. It took me a few visits to finally bring my coat and long pants. You'll need them.
Over the coming days we saw almost all of Maui. We drove the Hana Highway again, this time all the way to Oheo Gulch beyond Hana, and hiked the Pipiwai Trail (which is incredible) up to 400-foot Waimoku Falls. Then we kept going on the often-overhyped (and famously taboo-to-rental-cars) drive beyond the Gulch around the back of Haleakala to upcountry Maui. It's not a bad drive, so I still have no idea why so many rental car companies technically prohibit it.
The last day
As our trip wound down, on the final day my friend and I decided to do separate things. She wanted to hit the beach. I wanted to return one last time to Waikamoi.
So I drove all the way from Kihei back over to the Hana Highway and continued along to where we'd stopped earlier at Waikamoi. It was later in the day — the sun was close to setting — and I was nearly out of gas. I was anxious about getting back to Paia town to fuel up. I almost turned around twice before I got there. But I really wanted to enjoy that short hike through the rainforest one more time. So I kept going.
To this day, the fact that I went out alone freaks out my grandmother and even my mom. "What if something had happened?" they ask. Well, that's the irony of their question. Because something did happen. Something incredible. Had I never taken that drive, had I never almost run out of gas and almost prematurely turned back, had I not gotten there and had it totally to myself — the moment, etched in my memory like nothing else, would never have happened.
Continue with me in Part Three. The life-changing moment is about to begin, and things get really interesting from there.
Aloha,
John
